Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
